A tribute to innovation with COPERNI

Coperny Designer
Photo ©Erik Faulkner Coperni

For DSCENE magazine issue 16, Sebastien Meyer and Arno Veiland founder of Coperny sit with the fashion director katarina jorick It not only talks about the center of the Coperni world, but also the fashion industry’s obsession with innovative silhouettes and overproduction.

He started Coperni in 2013, but put it on hold while serving as creative director of the venerable French brand Courrèges. Almost three years later, you left the brand and started Coperni again in 2018. It didn’t seem too difficult to reconnect with existing customers and get a lot of attention from new ones. It came out almost naturally, didn’t it?

We were actually quite surprised by the reaction of the media and buyers to Koperni’s comeback. They were delighted to see the brand back. They all followed the evolution of the first Coperni until they won an ANDAM award in our first collection. Courrèges was a great experience but we had to go back to Coperni. It was an unfinished chapter.

Copernicus put the sun at the center of the universe and we wanted women to be at the center of the universe. We want them to feel good when they wear our clothes. It is also a tribute to innovation and new technologies that are central to our interests as designers.

The name Coperni was inspired by the Renaissance astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus and his heliocentric theory. why? What is at the heart of the Coperni world?

Copernicus put the sun at the center of the universe and we wanted women to be at the center of the universe. We want them to feel good when they wear our clothes. It is also a tribute to innovation and new technologies that are central to our interests as designers.

Coperny
©COPERNI, Photo: Luca Tombolini – Coperni 2022 Spring Summer Collection

The heliocentric theory was very controversial at the time. Do you think Coperni was a little ahead of his time?
We definitely have a forward-looking vision and aesthetics. We love innovation and digital media, but we also love beautiful, wearable, well-made clothing for the modern day. We love this contrast. So I’d rather say that Coperni follows the times.

I’m especially thinking about your catwalk. The catwalk hasn’t changed much since the 1960s. Why is it important to always specifically get out of the box?
We have always been passionate about digital media and technology. This is why we are constantly working on new projects. We love to play with our digital tools. We did our first XR, Extended Reality campaign. We always have adventures and games Instagram, but the runway format is essential to show our clothes and illustrate the Coperni woman, silhouette. And it’s important to get this human aspect essential to our work: this special moment when the model walks into the installation to a certain piece of music. When people all gather and show something at the same time.

But above all, we always want to create experiences. We don’t believe in overly classic fashion show formats. We believe in creating new experiences and dreams.

There’s something about the innovative feminine and sexy silhouette that caters to the general need for fun and lightness.

I really liked the FW21, which defined a new format.
In fact, the FW21 drive-in show was impressive, with models walking through a theater full of cars, journalists and industry people. We had the tallest Parisian show at the Montparnasse Tower a season ago. The following season invited people to a psychedelic beach to spend the summer in the hemp fields. It’s always about creating magical moments.

How did you find aesthetics when you first created the label, and how different is it now?
It’s not that different, but the collection is richer. At first, it transformed the evolving skill and precision of the new textile into a cavalier form with a youthful attitude. Now I think there’s something about the innovative feminine, sexy silhouette that answers the common need for fun and lightness. We have more unisex products in our collection. Coperni’s style is always the same, with many tailors, evening dresses and futuristic accessories. But it evolves season after season, depending on how our creative director Sébastien feels about society and what women want.

Photo © Courtesy of Manuel Obadia-Wils Coperni

For three years, you’ve been designing an intelligent wardrobe that combines minimalism with a Parisian flair. Can you describe Coperni using these keywords?
Coperni runs a minimalist, technical wardrobe with a Parisian flair and craftsmanship that is wearable, desirable and always-on. You can wear your Coperni and go straight from the office to your evening schedule. It is important to us because it is what the people around us want to wear.

Inspired by Apple’s Airplane Mode, the Swipe Bag is already a cult. Did you expect it?
We are delighted and proud of our Swipe Bags. It was our first bag. I remember we were thinking about it and had a revelation about a closed system. We didn’t expect such a huge success, but I think it’s because of the aesthetic meaning and meaning people know and feel. Evolving in different sizes and shapes with each season, we have a lot of fun designing accessories.

The increase in vintage and used is surprising, but the need for new and creative products is essential.

We recently witnessed a comeback in the 90s fashion world. What do you think we should subtract from this?
Hairstyling gel that Justin Timberlake had when he was a kid lol

What’s new and exciting in the fashion world today?
Digital, social networks, sustainability, new formats, new ideas. This is all the challenges we strive for and are passionate about.

What do you think about Instagram culture and the rise of influencers in the fashion world?
We think it’s great! There are many opportunists in this sector, but the people who work with us and are friends at home have a spontaneous, inclusive and responsible vision for the fashion we admire. It’s not about hiring 100 people and spending a lot of time and money on filming or advertising. This girl next door has an immediate impact on the community and the end consumer. It’s really attractive.

Koperny Resort 2022
©Coperni – Koperny Resort 2022 Collection

We consume too much and produce too much. It is a contradictory characteristic of fashion. How do you deal with that paradox?
I think people are playing badly with overproduction. Mainly in the mass market. Or produce quantities that will go on sale or retail outlets immediately. It’s a little sad. We don’t feel part of this. We produce very small series with high inventory sales, mainly in Italy and Portugal, to order from our stock salesmen, so we know that these parts will not wear out and will not be wasted. I think the rise of vintage and used is great, but the need for something new and creative is essential.

People are playing badly with overproduction. Mainly in the mass market. Or produce quantities that will go on sale or retail outlets immediately. It’s a little sad. We don’t feel part of this.

Do you think fashion and fashion designers can lead consumers to the necessary change?
Of course, that is our responsibility! It must lead to a brand with strong values ​​and ethics, including creative. We never copy. We always want to bring something new to the community, something they don’t already have.

Photo © Coperni

What’s next for Coperni?
many things! New collections, new collaborations, innovations, new bags. New fashion show experience. We are looking forward to unveiling our next project and continuing to evolve this brand we cherish every day.

For more information about Coperni, log on to: Coperniparis.com

Interview in DSCENE Issue 16 – Available now in print and digital.

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